Day 32 - Eureka, KS to Erie, KS (Part I)

82 Miles / Day 32 of 50 / Eureka, KS to Erie, KS (Part I)

From getting in much later than normal yesterday we accidentally slept through our 5 am alarm and woke up at 7:30 am. We started the night with our sleeping bags on top of the tables under the shelter. The bugs got the best of us. We fended off the mosquitoes but decided to put up the tent in the dark when we looked down and saw a few hundred cockroaches scurrying across the cement floor.

After packing up our campsite and eating our routine box of cereal and half gallon of milk we were ready to hit the road at around 10 am. Yesterday we were 45 miles into the day. Sleeping in can really throw the routine off.

By three hours into the ride our water bottles were almost empty and stomachs in search of food. Thankfully the small town of Benidict (pop. 40) was in sight. Benidict was were we met Joe. Joe ran the only store in Benidict. It was a converted three bedroom house that he had bought for $8,000 cash and built a store inside of.

The store had an incredibly homey feel. The coolers were old fridges. There were different foods and trinkets scattered and placed on various homemade shelf's that seemed to come out from the walls at any and all angles.

We sat in front of the fans and cooled off with Gatorade's, sandwiches and candy bars. Joe started to share his story as we caught our breathe.

Lesson #70: History is dark and painful. Growing up we don't hear anything close to the full story of this pain.

Joe was born in 1941. Growing up in World War II America he enlisted in the Army after the war when he turned 17. He ended up on the American Army base that was now occupying the German Nazi concentration camp in Dachau.

The stories he told of Dachau were chilling. He talked about deconstructing the concentration camp with his fellow soldiers and the horrors it held. He talked about unearthing mass graves of bones the size of football fields. He talked about the hallow and stomach dropping eeriness of taking apart the showers where poison was run through the pipes so the prisoners would die after showering.

While in Germany his speciality became sniping. And he was darn good at it. While not working on the base he traveled throughout Europe to train other American and ally soldiers as Europe was rebuilding. Eventually by the early sixties he and his friend Jerry had developed quite a reputation as being top snipers. Before long the CIA showed up on the base and Joe and Jerry started leaving the base to carry out CIA missions throughout Europe. He wouldn't go into too much detail about what he was doing for the CIA but you could hear the sorrow in his voice, and the pain of being the crucial pawn who carried out orders on the CIA's chessboard.

One day Joe and  were working on a platform in a American hanger near Dachau about 65 feet in the air. Two CIA agents appeared asking where Joe and James were. The Lieutenant pointed up to where they were and left the hanger. The hit that Joe and James had last carried out was apparently illegal and the CIA was in hot water as the country they had operated in had caught wind of their operation. The last two things Joe remembers after being pushed off of the platform were going in and out of consciousness as he laid mangled on the floor 65 feet below and being thrown in a ditch in the countryside as the Lieutenant told the CIA agents to get their bodies out of the base because he didn't want them dying there.

The next time he was awake he was in a full body cast in an Army hospital in New Jersey. He took a two years to fully recover and described how he kept falling and re-breaking bones as he would try to re-learn how to walk.

He became addicted to morphine during his recovery. His morphine addiction turned to street drugs once he assimilated back to mainstream culture. After hitting rock bottom multiple times throughout the country and racking up arrests and warrants in the process he checked into the Teen Challenge rehab in Phoenix, Arizona. He described the pain from with drawl he experienced at Teen Challenge as more intense than anything he had experienced before. Joe found Jesus through rehab and left Teen Challenge a year later to start his career in construction.

Jack and I pigged out at Joe's store and ran a tab of close to $20. Our total bill was $5.44 plus tax. He gave us all the ice and water we could drink (and carry) for free along with Gatorade's. Joe told us "You gotta give people their flowers while they can still smell 'em."

Lesson #71: Let go.

I couldn't believe that Joe could share his story with such calmness. I was outraged. And confused. He talked about how his experience at Dachau got him out of serving in Vietnam and how thankful he was for that.

Thank you Joe for sharing your story and being so generous with your store.

Day 31 - Hesston, KS to Eureka, KS

88 Miles / Day 31 of 50 / Hesston, KS to Eureka, KS

People are generous. People are kind.

To pick up where we left off yesterday - It was still well over 95 degrees, thick, and humid when we left the library around 6 pm. We were headed to the other side of town to eat din din and then pitch a tent in the park.

We stopped at Subway to escape the heat and grab some grub. We walked in and were greeted by a couple that was about our parents age. Ron and Deb. A few minutes into basic conversation Ron invited us back to their home to shower and spend the night and they generously bought us dinner. Whew people in Kansas sure are kind.

Thank you Ron and Deb. Incredible oasis.

Ron was currently a high school  counselor and had been a teacher for the last 30 years.

Lesson #68: The beginning is harsh. Stick with it.

As we ate dinner Ron told us about his first couple of years in the classroom in a small, rural school. It was absolutely brutal. He told us how he had no control over the class and no learning could happen because behavior was so poor. He couldn't have hit the nail any squarer on the head. He described the gut wrenching feelings of driving home knowing that he did a poor job that day. He talked about waking up in the morning and feeling anxious. He talked about feeling deeply inadequate for the job and feeling like a failure. He summed up a big part of our first year in the classroom.

He empathized about not knowing and having clarity as a first year teacher about exactly what his role was in the classroom.

He said the switch was in his third year when he decided enough was enough and that he had to put himself in the middle of the behaviors that were taking away from learning. He couldn't let things slide, he couldn't pretend not to hear students curse under their breathe, he had to put himself in the middle. He talked about how things improved once he had that clarity and communicated this clarity to his students about what he expected of them and what would happen if they were taking away from their own, or anyone else's, learning.

Lesson #69: We need to talk more and be open about our struggles. Everyone benefits and learns from your story.

A common theme I've seen in working with and talking to effective, successful veteran teachers is how challenging the first few years of teaching was for them. It seems like the farther removed you are from that initial struggle the more willing you are to share about it.

One of our school and district's most effective teachers is Mr. Whitehead, our band teacher. At the end of this year he told me about his first few years of being the band director. Again, absolutely brutal. The kids were gut-wrenchingly mean to him and their peers. His students told him they didn't like him and wanted to get him fired. They even stole his car on a Friday afternoon and didn't give it back until the following Tuesday. He got so fed up he told the kids he was going to quit. He didn't quit though - he showed up the next day and kept pushing. He has now been at the school 16 years and has taken the band to multiple national high school band and drum line championships.

We showered, did laundry and Ron and Deb even had MLB Network so Jack was on cloud nine as he got to watch his beloved Pirates beat the Athletics.

Jack in heaven. Gus Creach this basement was built for you.

Thank you Ron and Deb for the hospitality. Thank you for opening your home to us. Thank you Ron for sharing your story. Kansas continues to be nothing but kind people.
______________________

This morning we continued the new routine of waking up before the sun and were on the road by 6:30 am. The forecast called for the coolest day this week - just over 90. We rode due east into the wind and a few hours into the ride hit the biggest storm we've encountered yet. Jack and I were about three miles apart and when it started raining. I kept going as the rain was light and then pulled over once it really started to come down. Apparently I was on the edge of the storm because Jack stopped a few miles earlier at a farm house to take cover and said it was the most intense lightning (shout out to LS), thunder, and rain he had even seen.

We arrived completely soaked in Cassaddy, KS and had a late gas station lunch, Jack caught a nap, and then we headed south to Eureka. Felt wrong to go from triple digits in temperature the last few days to being chilled and cold in the rainstorm today. Don't sleep on mother nature.

Kansas public parks continue to deliver. We showered at the city park, pitched our tent and hit the hay. We need to get back in our early bed, early rise routine. Anything to beat the heat.

Day 30 - Larned, KS to Hesston, KS

98 miles / Day 30 of 50 / Larned, KS to Hesston, KS

So to start this off, as I said earlier, Kansas has been great in the fact that it's so welcoming to bikers. We've stayed at a city park every night and we've come up with qualities to be found in a good city park that caters to bikers:

1. A pavilion/awning so you don't have to put up a tent
2. A swimming pool/shower that you can use after a long day of biking
3. A soap dispenser for when you forgot your body wash in the middle of Utah somewhere.
4. (Clean!) Lost and found towels from the swimming pool (when you left your towels at a hot springs in Rico, Co (see below)

Yeah, we've hit the nomadic stage of our trip...

All of the above qualities were had in a great night in Larned. Because of that, we woke up early learning from our previous mistakes and tried to beat most of the heat.

Another perk to early morning starts.

We started the day out with 58 miles of no services. After getting on the road around six in the morning, we saw one of the most beautiful sunrises. Purples, oranges and yellows lit up the sky. Thanks, Kansas.

For once, the wind was straight in our face. Odd. Usually the wind is coming from the South in Kansas, and since we're going East, we get a cross wind, but it was coming almost directly out of the East and blowing in our faces. Thank goodness it was still cooler pounding out those miles!

We got into our first break at about 10:30 and were happy for the relief from the heat.

We had about 40 miles left, but it seemed like time just dripped as we went. Kansas has some hills (?) and there was some wind, but I think more than anything we were just tired.

We spent the afternoon chatting about dumb MLB/NBA moves, small market sports-franchises and draft history. It's funny how our two favorite teams - Seth's Timberwolves and my Pirates - seem to have similar fates year after year. Dumb trades, poor player development, bad luck.

Here's hoping the Buccos are getting out of the funk soon?

Anyways, we arrived in Hesston this afternoon, went right to the gas station and got free sandwiches from the guy who was working there. We must have looked REALLY worn-out.

Now we're looking for a place to sleep tonight. Hesston doesn't list any parks where bicyclists can stay. We might just try our luck though. Could make for another interesting encounter with the police.

Biking For: Warren County High School Band Program

Jack and I finally got a donation system set up for the bike ride!

Click on "Our cause" above or Click Here.

All money raised will be donated to the high school's band program.

The band is one of the biggest bright spots in Warren County and is a source a pride and positivity. The impact our band program has on our students cannot be summed up in words.

The band is self-supported and relies on scrapping donations from anyone and anywhere to be able to compete in shows and offer the opportunity to be in band to all students in our county.

If you believe in this cause and are willing to donate - please do!

If you know someone who would like to be a part of this - please share!

The pride of Warren County: “The Dynamic Marching Machine”

Day 29 - Dighton, KS to Larned, KS

99 Miles / Day 29 of 54 / Dighton, KS to Larned, KS

We made good on our plan and got up a little after 5 am, with the sun still yet to rise.

We packed up camp and headed to the gas station to split our now routine box of cereal and half gallon of milk. Mmmm, cereal.

We made it on the road right as the sun was starting to rise and cruised. We rolled through the first 2/3 of our ride and were 60 miles deep before 11 am. We might be onto something with this whole go to bed early / wake up early lifestyle. Here's to hoping it continues.

We stopped at our only town with a bar on the route for today and downed lunch. We were feeling on top of the world and eager to finish out the last 30 miles of our day's ride.

Then came the heat. It was 106 degrees after lunch, with 19 miles heading due south into the winds. It was brutal. High while biking was 110 degrees. Absolutely brutal.

Lesson #66: Avoid the heat. At all costs.

Today was a day of firsts - first time hitting 110 on the thermometer, first creek bed in Kansas with water in it (the first 14 were dry), and first time being pulled over by the police. Apparently Jack and I were biking to close to one another. The sheriff wanted us to ride single file. We nodded and continued on our way.

Lesson #67: Farmers are good.

Disclaimer - I love farmers. It's an inherent part of my Iowa pride. Being out on the road for half of the country we've experienced the full range of vehicle interaction from being yelled at / flipped off / exhaust intentionally blown in our face to people going out of their way to give us rides / beverages / loud cheering moral support up steep climbs. The positive interactions by far out weight  the negative ones. But there is something special about farmers. They show a certain love and respect on the road. An almost unspoken language where our eyes meet, and we exchange stoic nods. I think it comes from the empathy they feel for us as bikers. Both us on our bikes and farmers driving their half-ton combine down the road feel drivers impatience with us. And sure the farmers are sitting in air conditioned drivers seats and we're really out here in the heat, but I think they feel for us. And for that we love you.

We checked in with Larned Police and got permission (thank you) to camp in the park. After a cool dip in the pool and refreshing shower it was off to bed. We want to keep pushing this earlier and earlier. Gotta beat this heat at all costs.

Day 28 - Tribune, KS to Dighton, KS

70 Miles / Day 28 of 54 / Tribune, KS to Dighton, KS

We spelt in under the shade of the gazebo trying to recover from our big mileage day yesterday.

By the time we woke up around 9 am it was already well over 90 degrees. Whew.

We biked through the hottest part of the day and reached Dighton around 6 pm feeling completely and totally drained. This heat doesn't play around. Sometimes when Jack and I look back we realize we act in a way that often doesn't make sense.

Lesson #65: When it is hot out, don't bike. When it is less hot out, bike at this time.

New plan for tomorrow. Go to bed early. Wake up before sunrise and pound out the majority of our miles. I know, I know - Jack I can see you rolling you're eyes. (Going to bed early / sleeping in general isn't usually how my nights unfold. Nightime = thinktime).

We found the Sheriff's office on the third floor of city hall. After waiting patiently for a few minutes for the Sheriff to finish playing his video game (we got the sense that there was a lot of action that required law enforcement's attention here in Dighton) Jack got permission for us to set up camp in the city park.

Thankfully there was a breeze as we fell asleep. With the temperature still being well over 90 degrees I couldn't cool off our get to sleep in the tent. Thankfully the bugs weren't too bad as I slept in the cool grass on top of the ol' sleeping bag.

Happy start of Ramadan to our Muslim brothers and sisters tomorrow. We'll be thinking of you as we bike. Your discipline and commitment to the fast is inspiring.

Thank you Dighton for the free shower and free place to stay.

Day 27 - Ordway, CO to Tribune, KS (!)

121 Miles / Day 27 of 54 / Ordway, CO to Tribune, KS

We woke up in the morning with a dream and a prayer, and ended the day 120 miles later in Kansas.

Commence the long, arduous stretch of the trip.

Don't get me wrong, the Plains has its own beauty, but it's really hard to compare after spending such extensive time biking through the Sierra Nevada's and the Rockies.

We had 100 miles to hit the Kansas border, and the last 60 miles of our biking had no services (meaning no water). Eek.

We were cruising along thinking we were already in Kansas (honestly anything east of Interstate 25 might as well be considered Kansas) and hit the border!

Literally as soon as we hit the Kansas border a 30 mph wind came straight out of the South as a nice welcome, and has followed us through the majority of Kansas so far.

5 down, 5 to go.

Lesson #64: Kansas is hot. And windy. Plan accordingly.

It was interesting to see the contrast of the rolling plains from the 11000+ foot passes we went over just a few days earlier. Kind of made me miss all of those 6 mph climbs!

I'm not trying to rag on Kansas, the state has its own redeeming qualities.

For example, the towns are super hospitable. Most let you stay in the city park and shower at the city pool and even let you take a dip if it strikes your fancy. The people are caring and are genuinely interested in where you're from and what your trip's been like.

Looking at the radar, it seems like every day over the next week is going to be 100+ degrees in Kansas. Sheesh.

As Billy Madison would say, "It's too damn hot for a penguin to be just running around!"

We'll have to plan the upcoming days accordingly to beat the heat as best we can.

But for tonight, we celebrate our longest mileage day with a large pizza while camping in the city park. Cheers.