Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Pictures Added

We posted pictures on all of our old posts.

Day 7 - Petrolgyph State Recreation Area, NV to Eureka, NV

48 miles / Day 7 of 54 / Petrolgyph State Recreation Area, NV to Eureka, NV

Today was a day.

We woke up in the middle of desert sweating around 7 am. It was going to be a hot one.

Our neighbors to the left of us at the no water campsite were a retired couple from England and had been traveling around the western US by van for the past 12 weeks. Linda started the day off by giving us a gallon of water and some granola bars.

Feelin' the love early in the am.

John was a former teacher for 20 years in England and told us about how he thought the disparity in quality of education between high income and low income students in England was not as severe in
US because England has stronger social supports and less severe poverty.

Lesson #20: Teamwork makes the dream work.

John talked about how him and Linda were a team, he was the chef and she was the bookkeeper who kept them on track. He talked about how important it was in their relationship and travels to not blame each other but figure out how to make it work.

Shout to John and Linda for figuring out your dream vacation, and make it happen by being thrifty. John and Linda have been traveling for about 10 weeks and have spent a very minimal amount of money ($160 on lodging thanks to camping!).
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My back spoke was still broken and we had made it about 160 miles without a major problem. We rode out of the campsite crossing our fingers it would hold the next 115 miles to the nearest bike shop in Ely.

The first 35 miles were downhill but required a lot of effort and pedaling as the headwinds were strong. Jack was absolutely crushing me. I was feeling the fatigue in my legs from doing 190 in the past two days. That boy Jack is a machine.

While I was a good 30 to 40 minutes behind Jack he ran into a 62 year old man named Jo from France. He had a warm smile and was incredibly calm. Jo left New York City about 51 days ago and was heading for San Francisco. He is riding solo and unsupported (meaning he carries everything he needs with him on the bike). He said he had a stroke four years ago and his doctor said he needed to be less stressed and work out. He sold his company and the journey began.

Jo has averaged 80 miles a day. And he's 62.

Lesson #21: Age ain't no thing. Ball out while you still can.

Check out his blog here.
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About 8 miles out of Eureka (population 500) a second spoke blew on my back tire and the wheel started wobbling severely. It was hitting the metal crossbar on every rotation. Jack and I pulled over to side of desert and decided it was best to keep pushing to Eureka and then figure out how to get to the closest bike shop one town over once we were there.

About 30 minutes later limped into Eureka and headed for the local grocery store before dealing with the bike. A pound of turkey, loaf of bread and gallon of juice later we were sitting at the local Chevron station writing out a cardboard sign.

We really out here.

About an hour of holding up our sign in the middle of the road and we struck gold. Jeff pulled over in his 1990 VW Westfalia and we loaded our bikes into the back.

Lesson #22: People are kind and giving. It's a numbers game to find those who are willing to go out of their way to help you.

Jeff was a "semi-retired" geologist turned gold prospector who was traveling north of Ely to check the local courthouse for mining claims. He was planning to dig for gold.

The man who saved the day. Thank you Jeff.

Jeff gave us a brief introduction on hunting for gold. 80% of Nevada is public land, and as Jeff told us, it's incredibly hard and rare to find gold in the Nevada mountains. The state has a formal system set up where anyone can stake a claim on any plot of unclaimed public land to incentivize people to go find gold. No risk, high reward for the state; if Jeff finds gold the state takes a nice cut.

Lesson #23: If you can't grow it, you gotta mine it.

Every resource we use is either grown or mined according to Jeff. He lived and worked in Central America for many years being a geologist. It was in Argentina where he worked for a group that found a, in his words, small pocket of gold. Three million ounces later and Jeff is now "semi-retired".
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We made it to the Ely Bike Shop and dropped off the bikes to be fixed & serviced and are heading back in the morning.

We bought Jeff dinner to say thank you at a local Mexican Restaurant and then headed out to Cave Lake State Park. We watched a beautiful sunset over the reservoir and learned about; the fight for water rights in Nevada, resource wars, China's current and growing global dominance, and how our culture's current obsession with vampires stems from the 1968 image of Earth from outer space and how it serves as a metaphor that we as humans are all vampires who try so hard to and want to be good but ultimately are evil because we are cannibalizing the planet by destroying all our reserves of every natural resource. Whew.


Lesson #24: You're never too old to party.

While setting up our tent Jeff told us stories of the Burning Man festival. It sounds unreal. A six story burning man encompassed by tens of thousands of people partying in the bottom of a dried out lake bed in the middle of the desert in nowhere Nevada? My goodness.

Thank you to John and Linda for the stories about England and the water / food to get us started in the morning.

Thank you to April at the gas station for giving us Sharpie markers to make a cardboard sign out of.

Thank you to Jeff for getting us from Eureka, NV to the closest bike shop in Ely. You are a life saver.

Thank you for the stories, and additions to our bucket list (travel in a Westie VW Van, attend Burning Man).

Day 6 - Middlegate, NV to Petrolgyph State Recreation Area, NV

90 miles / Day 6 of 54 / Middlegate, NV to Petrolgyph State Recreation Area, NV

Today was another big day. After our first century ride yesterday, we continued some great mileage.

We've been blessed by fantastic weather and a nice little tail wind pushing us through the Nevada desert.


We pounded out some mileage in the morning and caught up with our friends, the grandfather and grandson from the night before. What an awesome thing, a grandfather being able to experience such an awesome opportunity with his grandson.

We had two small climbs and planned to stop in Austin for lunch, population 130. The Nevada mountains have been hard and high, but the grade hasn't been too terrible. Pretty much cruise at 5-7 miles per hour for a few miles and we could get to the top. Well, our climb into town completely kicked our butt and made us exhuasted. We were psyched, having already completed 64 miles for the day and it was only 2:30!

We met a  grandpa and his grandson who were going coast to coast on their bikes at the top of our second summit.

After grabbing some grub, Seth and I decided to tackle to rest of the climb, up to about 7500 feet and camp about 5 miles from town, having completed the ascent so we wouldn't have to do it in the morning first thing. Again, the grade was hard, but we made it up and completed about 70 miles. It was only 5:30, so we made a game-time decision. After looking at the map it was decided we'd try to push our mileage while we were still feeling okay. Also, a large portion of our next stretch was downhill.

Talk about exciting, going 40+ miles an hour down some of these descents is truly incredible. Really makes you feel alive. We cruised the last 19 miles into camp for an even 90 for the day and 190 over the last two. Not too shabby! We're about halfway through Nevada and cruising.


We hope that the more miles we can bang out now, the quicker we can get to a bike shop and get Seth's spoke fixed (see yesterday's post). Here's to two great days!

Lesson # 19: Sometimes, it's good to push yourself because you never know where it can take you.

Because we took those extra 19 miles at the end of the day, we're camping in a beautiful petroglyph rock area with sweeping views of the Sierras. Life is good.

Day 5 - Dayton, NV to Middlegate, NV

99.5 miles / Day 5 of 54 / Dayton, NV to Middlegate, NV

We spent the night in the Dayton State Park campground and got chowed by the mosquitoes. We woke up around 7:30 am, packed up, grabbed breakfast and water from the grocery store (it was the last store we would see for 80 miles) and took off into the desert a little after 9 am.

Empty in the desert. Peaceful.

After yesterdays recovery day of covering 40 some miles we were ready to put in work. Luckily the route for today was in our favor, downhill for the first 50 miles.

We pedaled hard and ended up in Fallon, NV by about 12:30 pm. Morning talk revolved around sports (shout out to the Hawkeyes and Buckeyes) and I had the privilege of learning about Jack's senior thesis for his journalism major. Jack went in and broke down the two categories that all sport fans fall into.

We stopped in Fallon, NV and loaded up on that young dollar menu at Macky D's.

Lesson #16: Prioritize water above everything else.

Leaving Fallon we were entering a 300 mile stretch of road on "America's Loneliest Highway" that was broken up in 70 and 80 mile stretches with no water.

No water. No problem. Rock on.

AAA official statement on Highway 50: "It's totally empty. There are no points of interest. We don't recommend it. We warn all motorists not to drive there unless they're confident of their survival skills."

Thankfully Jack had a 3 liter sack that we have been carrying since Fallon. Better safe than sorry.
We biked away from the setting sun and 47 miles into the desert. Around 6:30 pm we arrived at Middlegate, a bustling Nevada metropolis that is home to 17 brave souls.

RIP to #18. 

The Middlegate Station was a bar and 8 room motel with free camping out back. We had found heaven. Basketball, a calm and loving dog, good food, fresh water, a shower, and a sink to wash our clothes in. Everything you could possibly want in this world.

Can't let that hoop dream die. Europe here I come.

Lesson #17: You are never to old to do epic stuff with your grand kids.

We met our first fellow cross-country bikers at the Middlegate Station. A grandpa and his 21 year old grandson were traveling the same route across the country.

At the bar we met Buck, a weathered and reserved older man who used to do century (100 mile) bike rides across New Mexico in his younger days. I had bent my back wheel hitting a pothole on a downhill stretch and Buck offered to true (center) the tire for me. While showing us how to true a wheel we realized that we had broken a spoke. Not good. There was around 30 pounds being carried on my rear rack which was supported by this wheel. Buck centered the wheel as best he could and said a prayer for us that we would make it.

The fastest man on two wheels in New Mexico in 1983. Truing up that back tire.

Lesson #18: No need to stress about things you can't control. It will all work out in the end. It always does.

With the back spoke broken, but the wheel trued as best it could be, there was nothing to do except load up the bikes and keep riding tomorrow morning.

We didn't put the rain fly on top of our tent and fell asleep being mesmerized by the stars. Complete darkness thanks to no city lights and being in the middle of nowhere made for an incredible night time sky show.

Thank you Buck for your help - here's to hoping we make it the next 240 miles with a missing spoke.

Friday, June 14, 2013

Day 4 - Woodfords, CA to Dayton, NV

42.5 miles / Day 4 of 54 / Woodfords, CA to Dayton, NV


Today we woke around 8 am, packed up our tent and gear and were on the road by 9:30 am. We stopped shortly into our ride and loaded up on a big breakfast at a roadside cafe.

1 down. 9 to go.

About 12 miles into todays ride we crossed into Nevada. We were really feeling yesterday's 40 miles of climbing in our legs today. Our route was great today in terms of evelation, barely any climbs, but we didn't put in that many miles as our legs are still recovering.

We met our first headwinds riding downhill out of Nevada's capitol city, Carson City. It was surreal pedaling hard downhill and realizing you're only going 11 mph.


Lesson #15: Enjoy the ride.

No need to push yourself beyond the point of exhaustion. It's beautiful out here, it's always a good idea to take a second to stop pedaling and enjoy the view.

Day 3 - Placerville, CA to Woodfords, CA

51.5 miles / Day 3 of 54 / Placerville, CA to Woodfords, CA

We woke up rested (we got to sleep on beds! - Thank you David and Pam) and departed on full stomachs (Thank you David and Pam).

Packing up the gear at the beginning of the Mormon Emigrant Trail that goes through the Sierra Mountains in California.

Our route called for us to head south to Somerset and then cut back east to meet up with Highway 88 through the California Mountains.Thanks to a few locals at the Raeley's Grocery Store - we diverted off of our maps and cut due east. Our new route had us going on 31 miles of the Mormon Emigrant Trail through El Dorado National Forest. The trail led through the heart of the Sierra's and climbed 4000 feet (!) in 30 miles. And our new route was completely unsupported, not even one water spigot on the route.

Lesson #12: It's never about how many miles you have to pedal.
It's about how many feet you have to climb because of the elevation.

Climbing. Just keep swimming.

David very nicely dropped us off at the head of the trail and we packed up our bikes and started climbing up. Straight up. As we labored through and went 5 mphs uphill on our bikes for 30 miles I was stuck thinking about David. He was nothing but kind and giving. He opened up his house for us, provided us beds / showers, and gave us a great breakfast. David said a nice prayer for us before he left the head of the trail. Not being the most religious person I found great comfort and calm in his prayer that wished us safe travels and encounters with kind people along the way.

We wanted this view to last longer so we took a picture.

Lesson #13: The most important thing is how we treat each other as people.

From a young age I've watched a lot of people including myself get caught up in the nitty gritty specifics of our religious beliefs. David didn't have to tell us what he believed. He showed us. He believed in being kind. He believed in helping others. He believed in being a loving father and spouse. Thank you for being a great role model for us David.

The climb was worth it.

It took us 9 hours to bike 41 miles (including stops and lunch) to go from 2,000 feet above sea level to Carson's pass at 8,500 feet. It took us 45 minutes to ride 10 miles down the other side of the mountain pass. We we're flying. Our sweat dried as we bombed hill after hill. That last 10 miles was better than any shower I've ever had. We went from spending a full day going 5 mph to flying down hills, trees wooshing by with snow capped mountains in the background at over 30 mph.

Started the day a little of 2,000 feet in elevation.

Today was our toughest day yet. We set up camp behind a secluded bluff in a mountain valley.

Lesson #14: Sleep is everything. Go to bed early. In the city I am distracted and resist sleep. Our here I have not distractions. Sleep is wonderful.

Thank you to David for dropping us off at the head of the trail today.

Thank you to our three new friends we met 2/3 through the Mormon Trail, you guys were great inspiration. We didn't want to go any farther. Thanks for distracting us.

I'll climb for days if it means I can grown a mustache like our dude in orange here.

Day 2 - Davis to Placerville, CA

70.5 miles / Day 2 of 54 / Davis, CA to Placerville, CA

After about the best first night you could ask for (thanks again Mike) we were off from Davis with no end in sight. Before we knew it we had made it to Sacramento (I ain't worried about the Sacramento Queens) CA. The American River runs straight through the city and we were lucky to take the Jedidiah Smith National Bike Trail for about 25+ miles around the city.

Met a lot of racing bikers who gave us looks with all of our gear. A good conversation starter if nothing else.

Lesson #9: People are automatically intrigued if you stick out a little bit. Feed their curiousity.

Our normal conversations are like a Choose-Your-Own-Adventure novel. We have the following scenarios:

Scenario A: "Wow, you've got a lot of stuff there! Where are you headed?"
"The Atlantic!"
"That's crazy, you guys live it up! Enjoy the adventure! et cetera

Scenario B: "What are you carrying in there, a dead body?"
"Uh, not quite. We've got all of our gear we need to cross the country by bicycle"
Passerby then proceeds to ask 15-20 questions about our trip, all of which we have rehearsed SEVERAL times

Scenario C: "What are you doing with all of that on your bike?"
"We're from North Carolina and we're headed home"
Passerby gives us confused look, trying to compute if that's a 40 mile ride or a 4000 mile ride.

Any way the conversation comes up, we've certainly met a lot of cool people along the way.

Our day started at the Mormon Emigrant Trail.

We spent the afternoon riding through Folsom and more of beautiful wine country, and made our way to Placerville. We were anxious about that night, as we didn't have the ease and convenience of staying with a friend. So, needless to say we started asking around when we got to town where we could pitch a tent for the night.

Lesson #10: Don't be afraid to ask a favor of someone. The worst thing they can say is no.

We spend the late afternoon in the grocery store asking anyone and everyone where we might be able to stay that night. We got every answer from a Wal-Mart parking lot, the homeless shelter and a park on the edge of town.

Thinking the park might be our best way to stealth camp we chased sunset to the park and were hoping to find a quiet spot and quickly pitch our tent. What we happened upon were adult slow-pitch men's leagues playing under the lights.

We must have looked pretty pitiful as a man came up to us and started talking, asking US if we needed a place to stay for the night. We quickly said we were looking, and he offered up his home for the night.

Lesson #11: People are kind. People go out of their way to help others. Pay it forward.

David was truly a blessing after a long day. A pastor in Placerville, he lives with his wife, Pam, a crazy marathoner and four kids, three dogs and two cats. And they were willing to give us food, a shower and a warm bed for the night. Incredible!

Stayed up late with David talking about his church, his ministry and learned a ton of good lessons about where life can take you. We know you're reading this, David, and we're so appreciative of all the support. A pastor and a mentor, we learned a lot of lessons from David that we will continue to carry with us on our trip and help us moving forward.
David and Jack in David's living room.

California has been good to us. We've been extreemely blessed and look forward to the unknown!

Sidenote: If you ever find yourself in Placerville, check out his church - Cold Springs Community Church. You won't regret it.